Circa 2003 White Gold Roger Dubuis Much More M32

The Watch: A Roger Dubuis Much More (M32, 32x46) in white gold. Roger Dubuis was one of the leading lights of independent late 20th, and 21st century watchmaking.

Dubuis began his watchmaking career during the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, starting at Longines in the late 1950s. He then moved to Geneva to work for Patek Philippe as a constructor and watchmaker in the high complications workshop, where his watchmaking philosophy solidified.

After 14 years at Patek, Dubuis left to set up his own small workshop in 1980, operating as a repair for high end auction houses and watch brands. And then, in the early 1990’s, he connected with Carlos Dias to create the eponymous brand.

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors, because they were channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippe personified, while having more stylistic flair. In a 2012 interview, Mr Dubuis explained the original goal was to create complicated and highly finished timepieces in the most refined Geneva style, which actually meant a heavy dose of inspiration from Patek Philippe. The watches were Genevoise watchmaking on steroids.

But Roger Dubuis (the brand) is also the story of a short-lived band. Dubuis was the watchmaker, and Dias was the businessman, and by 2004, Dubuis had left the brand, while Dias’s more boisterous, muscular vision began to take over. By 2008 the brand had expanded significantly, and Dias sold to Richemont for a nine-figure sum. From here the watchmaking became far less interesting, but in a brief epilogue, Roger Dubuis himself was brought back to act as an ambassador for the brand.

This example is from the end of Dubuis’s tenure, as the brand shifted towards bigger cases, but still retains the Geneva seal, 28 piece limit, and gorgeous finishing of prime Dubuis. The movement features a pocket watch inspired 3-finger-bridge architecture, and the thick, reflective art deco numerals and blued hands give the dial a pop-art feel.

Condition: Excellent condition. Some wear visible in photos.

Includes: Watch only.