Patek Philippe 5085/1A-001 Neptune with box and extract from the archives

The Watch: The Patek Philippe 5085/1A-001 Neptune, launched in 1998 and produced until 2005, is a hidden gem from Patek’s late-1990s catalog. Designed as a more upscale counterpart to the Nautilus, the Neptune offers a rare combination of stainless steel, an integrated bracelet, and useful complications. In a world where steel Patek sports watches now dominate headlines, the Neptune stands apart as an understated, collectible timepiece that feels distinctly of its era.

At 37mm in diameter and just 9.6mm thick, the Neptune has an elegant, slim profile that wears beautifully on the wrist. Its lug-to-lug length of 43.8mm ensures a comfortable fit, while the bracelet, with its unique rounded, polygonal links, all-polished top surface and satin-finished sides add an element of opulence, and practical details like screw-fixed removable links and ventilation gaps showcase the care that went into its design. It affixes with a double-deployant clasp, adorned with Patek’s Calatrava cross

The black dial is packed with complications, yet remains balanced and highly legible. Radially arranged Arabic numerals give the watch a sporty, military-inspired aesthetic, while white varnished hands and the original tritium lume add vintage charm. The dial features a moonphase display with a pointer date at 6 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock, and small seconds at 4 o’clock. Two discreet corrector pushers on the case flank allow for quick adjustment of the calendar and moonphase.

Inside beats the Caliber 240 PS, the same movement as a Nautlius 5712—a micro-rotor masterpiece that combines the elegance of a manually wound movement with the convenience of automatic winding. The 22k gold micro-rotor ensures efficient energy transfer while keeping the movement thin, resulting in a 48-hour power reserve. Patek’s signature Gyromax balance and 29 jewels provide exceptional precision, while the hand-finishing—Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, and perlage—showcases the craftsmanship that Patek is renowned for.

With its 30-meter water resistance and sleek profile, the Neptune is as versatile as it is rare. Often overshadowed by the Nautilus and Aquanaut, the Patek Philippe 5085 is a sleeper hit that combines vintage charm, practical complications, and the allure of a steel integrated bracelet—qualities that are increasingly sought after.

Fits up to a 7" wrist.

Condition: Excellent neo-vintage condition. There is a very small mark by the 11 on the dial. See photos.

Includes: Watch, box, and extract from the archives.